I have mentioned to several riders on this tour that ‘back in my day’ (3 years ago) when I was in Sudan for the first time with Tour d’Afrique, the week of riding from Wadi Halfa to Dongola was one of the toughest on the entire tour.
Now with the completion of a paved road it is a whole new place. It wasn’t long ago that our schedule included five cycling days to get us from Wadi Halfa to Dongola. The days in the heat, sand, and corrugation were grueling but ever so serene in the evenings. The Nubian Desert then felt like a new world – uncharted territory to all of us.
Today, it still retains much of that serenity. And I must admit, as I cycled a relatively easy 150 km to our desert camp two days ago, I deeply enjoyed being able to cover such distances with the old sandy and bumpy road snaking back and forth underneath the groomed, and raised roadbed of this tarmac beauty.
On the old road the daily distances were as low as 70 or 80 km on some of the toughest days. And you never really got the same distance reading as the other riders in the group, because we all rode different tracks that spread like fingers through the desert – some a little longer and tougher than others – and most ending at our Nile campsites.
The road has changed a lot of things for the people in these regions. Some of the small villages that happened to be situated next to the new road will likely be benefiting from increased traffic and opportunity for income – selling drinks, snacks, and other essentials to the truckers, bus passengers, and tourists that pass through.
Though it is a shame now that some villages along the Nile, where the paved road no longer wanders, will likely see a sharp decrease in the traffic (not that there was much before).
There was also something to be said for arriving to a small village of just a handful of families by dirt road, and to cycle through and meet the people. The paved road allows us to pass more quickly to our destinations further along, but what time we gain, we perhaps have lost in the opportunity to have a true chance to interact with the people in these villages.
Unlike the heavy hand of the Sudanese government, regular Sudanese people are some of the friendliest of any place I have travelled. It is one of the few places where I feel as though I am treated as any other citizen on the street is treated, no worse and no better. This allows me to feel at ease, and able to explore and interact more freely.
From an organizational standpoint on the Tour d’Afrique, we have generally decided that with every kilometer of pavement that’s added to our route, we seek to return again to the days of dirt, and so we constantly explore new ways to challenge our clients after they have had the pleasure of riding such a comfortable stretch between Wadi and Dongola.
Our new route south of Khartoum promises a real off-road adventure, exploring a new ‘uncharted’ place, and hopefully having a better chance yet again to slow the pace down and interact with the Sudanese people we pass.
Dinder National Park… here we come! (stay tuned for a report from the new route in Dinder Park coming soon)
Some pictures from the past week…
Cyclists arrive to our desert lunch stop
Village scene in the midday heat
Poster of Sudanese President Bashir President Omar al-Bashir at roadside snack shop
{ 6 comments… read them below or add one }
Shanny – nicely written! I have been doing a lot of research on the Nubian Desert and what you have written sums it up perfectly. I’m curious to know how vast the Desert seemed to you. I’d be grateful for a reply. My Best, Kat Brooks
Hi Kat,
Thanks for the comment. How vast it felt? hmmm. Before the paved road it surely felt infinite at times without any good reference points that I am familiar with – nothing that told me I am 32 km from somewhere, or a sign telling me “caution roadworks ahead” or village ahead etc.
This was certainly intimidating at times. I knew that I was not alone, and that I had support, but when you don’t physically see anyone else around you start questioning yourself and worrying where you are headed/where you have come from.
In retrospect I also think of the people that live in such areas, and the challenges that come along with this life.
I hope you continue to check into my blog from time to time. Take care
Quote:Unlike the heavy hand of the Sudanese government, regular Sudanese people are some of the friendliest of any place I have travelled. It is one of the few places where I feel as though I am treated as any other citizen on the street is treated, no worse and no better. This allows me to feel at ease, and able to explore and interact more freely
Facts come out of your heart, but still your intentions read your subjectiveness and that you want to divert such facts to please certain parties. Tell me How can there be a kind of people you are talking about a part from their government? is that government coming from Mars to rule with a super power that controls all the people of such good nation?
Hi Abu,
For me to speak of Sudanese people in general terms as being “some of the friendliest” is certainly just my opinion. Perhaps it is more accurate for me to say that the majority of the people I met in Sudan were very friendly.
I appreciate you sharing your comments and your point of view.
Hi Shanny
Thanks for your prompt response. However, for me your impressions about my good people is appreciated. Not most but all people in Sudan are friendly and hospital to their guests, but they flare up like a hell when they feel insulted or humilated. Sudanese are the only nation, may be on earth , to have overthrown 2 military regimes within 2 decades unarmed except of their will to restore democracy. If their government is of the kind you tried to expose then they will be the only party to deal with and throw it away. By the way can you explain one incident of hard hands of Sudan government that you have met and how does that compare to what you have been meeting from the government authorities in your country or in those countries you passed through during your journey?. volunteering un true information about a country (government+people) to serve a certain agenda is the main reason that ignites hatered between nations and lead to all the world instability we observe these days.
I mean to let you know that its the difference of cultures that make people misunderstand the way of living of a nation. People are not the same all over the world in everything. They are the same in a sense they are all creatures of almighty God and they have the same organs and/or features. But each nation has its own culture, habits, norms and way of living. To describe a government that it is hard and separate from its nation or to describe a nation that is good but have a bad governemnt always comes with negative results. You may recall the reaction of the Sudanese people, pro government and unti government, towards Okambo’s decision to take their leader Omer Al Bashir to the International Court of Criminals. In fact it added to the popularity of President Bashir and strenghthend the solidarity of Sudanese people and most of all showed the douple standard way of the so called civilised world in addressing world issues.
Thanks for your tolerance.
Hello again Abu, thank you for your insight, and your opinion.
I won’t pretend to know enough about Sudan to make a strong argument, and I think my opinion on the matter surely would evolve and mature the more I learn about Sudan. I speak from my perspective on the experience and the knowledge I have gained along the way.
I have been to the Sudan twice, and only for a short time each visit. And to truly understand a culture and its people… and its government takes much more time than that indeed.